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What the Fork: Celebrate mangoes this season with this Parsi-style lamb curry, writes Kunal Vijayakar

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What the Fork: Celebrate mangoes this season with this Parsi-style lamb curry, writes Kunal Vijayakar


It’s that time of year when life seems like a Mardi Gras mango. Every restaurant, cafe, kitchen, and home, at least in western India, celebrates mangoes. The alphonso mango is in full bloom and in full bloom. Amaras is now a must-have on almost every table, and sliced ​​mango with ice cream, Panna Cotta Mango, Mango Cheesecake, Mango Peda, Thai Mango Sticky Rice and mango in every dessert form has filled the menu. menu, restaurant, bakery and our kitchen. Although I recently dedicated an entire article on how to cook with mango, I came across a woman who bowed to me with her mango lamb.

Mahrukh Moghrelia lives in Mumbai, although she comes from a small town in Gujarat called Navsari. By now, you should recognize her as Parsi, but she is not like most Parsis you may have met. For us, the Parsis are somewhat miserable city dwellers who live not only in this sprawling metropolis but also in the vast well-appointed colonies of Mumbai. But Mahrukh is a native of Navsari. She may have lived in Bombay for decades but she is still passionate about her village-style Parsi cooking, a raw and delicious ingredient.

While history places them on the coast of Gujarat, the Parsis people gave their names and numbers here in Mumbai. But the smaller towns and cities of Gujarat, like Ankleshwar, Bharuch, Udwada, Dumas, Billimora are inhabited by many Parsis people who are still untouched by the modernity of Mumbai. As is their way of cooking, simple, traditional and seasonal is determined.

Most of us have eaten Dhansak and Salli Boti and Patra ni Machchi, but as you dig deeper into rural cooking, you’ll find mouth-watering dishes like “Gosh no batavo,” a rustic preparation. rustic, village-style meat consisting of marinated meat slow cooked in a palm tree until it simmers down to a delicious sweet and sour gravy. Or Parsi-style Chicken Vindaloo made with ‘sarko’ – a type of sugar vinegar aged in barrels at Navsari’s legendary EF Kolah & Sons. Rare preparations like “Trotters cooked with black-eyed peas” or “Bhaji dana ma gosht” – a spicy dish of lamb, greens and peas cooked over a wood fire. Kurush Dalal, my encyclopedia of all things culinary, and a chef of Parsi heritage, once fed me “Masoor ma Jeeb” –Ox Tongue cooked with spices and whole Beans red mausoleum.

By now you must have realized that Parsi cuisine already includes meat, fish and eggs. But for a daily amount of roughage, the Parsis used to cook vegetables but add meat to everything and anything. That’s how we get ‘guvar-ma-ghos’ (French bean), ‘bhida-ma-ghos’ (ladyfinger), French bean-ma-gosh, ‘cauliflower-ma ghos’, ‘papri-ma-ghos’ ‘ (wide -soy), even ‘kakdi ma ghos’. ‘Kakdi’ is a large cucumber or marrow. And don’t miss, ‘tarela-kera-ma-ghos’ (meat with fried banana). And so, if the season is defined by the mangoes, so is their cooking.

Mahrukh Moghrelia, whom I visited at home, cooked me an incredible dish called ‘Kanda, Kairi Ma Ghos’ which translates as lamb cooked with onions and mango. The recipe seems simple enough. Sauté the chopped onions until they are brown and translucent, add to the ginger-garlic mixture and the lamb, until the flesh has softened and changed color from pink to white. Add a host of spices, including ‘dhana-jeera’, Kashmiri chili powder as well as spicy red chili powder, a dash of turmeric, Paris sambhar masala, and a little Dhansak masala and more onions, but white ones. freshly cut chunks In half.

Then you peel a few fully ripe alphonso mangoes, unsliced, with the seeds intact. Cook everything with a little water until the meat is completely done. And you’ve got this beautiful golden dish. Tender pieces of lamb with signature flavors of softened onion, dhana-jeera and spice, sharp thanks to red peppers and sweet thanks to ripe alphonso. If you want to truly honor the king of fruits, what better way than to do it.

Kunal Vijayakar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. His YouTube channel is called Khaane Mein Kya Hai. The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not represent those of this publication.

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Teja
I am passionate about journalism and using new technology to spread news. I am also interested in politics and economics, and I am always looking for ways to make a difference in the world. I am the CEO of Janaseva News, and I am 24 years old.

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